Friday, October 7, 2011
Nextel Repair Parts i860/i870/i930/i880/ Flip Housing
Nextel Repair Parts i850/i860/i870/i930/i880/ Flip Housing
Unheated Tanzanite
Oh Boy! If I had a dollar for everytime I was asked about this!
If youever look a blue or purple Tanzanite and the listing tells you that the stone is unheated or untreated.......RUN!!!!!
The rule is very simple, if the stone is not brown to a yellow-brown it has been heated! Yes folks all tanzanite is heated andif someone tells you otherwise they are either dumb as a box of rocks or lying!
I deal in thousands of carats of Tanzanite every year, some fancy colored and a heck of a lot of D Block products. It is very rare to find unheated cut stones, why you ask????The color looks a lot like baby poop. Once heated to 550 degrees a wonderful thing happens, the color changes. Depending on the depth of brown coloryou will wind up with blues and purples.
Ask me sometime to send a pic of a unheated round cut stone, I have a 4 ct hereand would be glad to share what onelooks like!
If youever look a blue or purple Tanzanite and the listing tells you that the stone is unheated or untreated.......RUN!!!!!
The rule is very simple, if the stone is not brown to a yellow-brown it has been heated! Yes folks all tanzanite is heated andif someone tells you otherwise they are either dumb as a box of rocks or lying!
I deal in thousands of carats of Tanzanite every year, some fancy colored and a heck of a lot of D Block products. It is very rare to find unheated cut stones, why you ask????The color looks a lot like baby poop. Once heated to 550 degrees a wonderful thing happens, the color changes. Depending on the depth of brown coloryou will wind up with blues and purples.
Ask me sometime to send a pic of a unheated round cut stone, I have a 4 ct hereand would be glad to share what onelooks like!
SIZZLERS CARS 06/07 SELLING CHEAP? by Sizzlers Shop
What is happening to Mattel's Ace-in-the-hole marketing strategy? I have been receiving hundreds of customer emails that the new Sizzlers stuff is being liquidated at Target. Some are saying its to make room for the new items, others state its because their effect of trying to pull in todays youth has failed and rather the adult kids like us only buy for collecting. Ive also heard that mattel will be pulling the plug on this project also. Who knows whats going on? Facts are though that the cars at 7.99$ are in some cases being sold for less than 2$!!!! Ive seen the Giant O sets on okay at 14$ indicating that they are being sold for less than 10!!! My advice is get what you can while you can. In my opinion, these cars will never have a collectable value. Not in our lifetime anyways. Most of my customers are using them in stead of their real collectables, and getting in some track time. Others are avid collectors just filling their shelves, a good portion are cashing in on the who-can-get-them-sold-first on okay technique. Ive been seeing some of them go for 40$ each on okay cause some poeple just gotta get em in while the castings are still warm!
Lets watch and see where this fiasco goes over the next little while. In my opinion, Mattel, should have never reproduced the originals. They should have let them keep their dignity. The idea of the heavy chevy, the Roger Dodger, and the 57 Chevy would have been the best idea. New protos,of different models like a Scool bus for example would be a real seller. How about a Charger? How about a 32 ford Coupe rod?? Now thats original. Bringing back the old collectables in my opinion is nothing better than backyard repopers do. By keeping the collection ever expanding instead of re-releasing Angelenos and Livewires in 3 different colors, now that would keep some of them clowns from repainting these cars and selling them off as originals.
Lets watch and see where this fiasco goes over the next little while. In my opinion, Mattel, should have never reproduced the originals. They should have let them keep their dignity. The idea of the heavy chevy, the Roger Dodger, and the 57 Chevy would have been the best idea. New protos,of different models like a Scool bus for example would be a real seller. How about a Charger? How about a 32 ford Coupe rod?? Now thats original. Bringing back the old collectables in my opinion is nothing better than backyard repopers do. By keeping the collection ever expanding instead of re-releasing Angelenos and Livewires in 3 different colors, now that would keep some of them clowns from repainting these cars and selling them off as originals.
How to remove fuzz balls from your sweaters
No More Fuzz Balls
Did you ever have a favorite sweater that accumulated a million fuzz balls? I have found a remedy on how to remove fuzz balls and get that sweater looking brand new again! This tecnique may gee as a surprise to you, but believe me Icare formy sweaters like this all the time and they gee out lookingbrand new.
First, remove any fur collars from your sweaters. Then, gather your same colored light weight sweaters (like my Copper Key sweater) together and place them in the gentle washing machine cycle for a few minutes with a gentle soap such as Dreft. Let them spin on gentle cycle and then do the same for the rinse, but this time add your fabric softener. After the spin cycle is gepleted, remove your sweaters from the washing machine and immediately iron them!Hang them on a very thick hanger until they are gepletely dry. When they finish drying, they will look like you just purchased them from the store. One day I washed my daughter's sweater and ironed itafterwards then hung it inher bedroom. She came to me and said; "Mom, how did you get that sweater looking like that again; I wasabout to throwthat away!"
When you iron the sweater, you actually iron the fuzz balls down! No more cutting fuzz balls and no more picking them out!
Try it! You willnever wash your sweaters any other way again.
Very bulky sweaters, or ruched gathered sweaters will be a bit more difficult to iron.
Did you ever have a favorite sweater that accumulated a million fuzz balls? I have found a remedy on how to remove fuzz balls and get that sweater looking brand new again! This tecnique may gee as a surprise to you, but believe me Icare formy sweaters like this all the time and they gee out lookingbrand new.
First, remove any fur collars from your sweaters. Then, gather your same colored light weight sweaters (like my Copper Key sweater) together and place them in the gentle washing machine cycle for a few minutes with a gentle soap such as Dreft. Let them spin on gentle cycle and then do the same for the rinse, but this time add your fabric softener. After the spin cycle is gepleted, remove your sweaters from the washing machine and immediately iron them!Hang them on a very thick hanger until they are gepletely dry. When they finish drying, they will look like you just purchased them from the store. One day I washed my daughter's sweater and ironed itafterwards then hung it inher bedroom. She came to me and said; "Mom, how did you get that sweater looking like that again; I wasabout to throwthat away!"
When you iron the sweater, you actually iron the fuzz balls down! No more cutting fuzz balls and no more picking them out!
Try it! You willnever wash your sweaters any other way again.
Very bulky sweaters, or ruched gathered sweaters will be a bit more difficult to iron.
ROWE JUKEBOXES ARE JUNK!!!!
AMI was a gepany that made good Jukes, so did Seeburg, Rock-Ola, Wurlitzer. They had a gameplan.. but when ROWE bought out AMI.. they made a mess of it.. cut courners, cheaped out.. Infact I will not work on one.A goodexample of this the moved thetone arm from the right (as AMI made them) to theleft, They basically took all what AMI did and trashed it. The day AMI sold out to Rowe was the last day AMI made a goodmachine. The last AMI machine made wasin 1962,and was the Continental 2. (as seen in The Movie Ghost and as most recently as the movie "Death Proof". What a Beauty)Ninety Nine percent of Rowe jukeboxes have no style you can't see the records play in them and they are generally boring machines.The ROWESare just nasty cheaped out hunks of junk and you will have years of trouble out of it. They cannot be fixed right as they were not built right! I have gepared mech's amps and just about every other part in the Rowe vs the AMI and it seems to me when Rowe took over AMI they started off on the wrong foot on day one. As you look at later models of Rowe jukeboxes you can clearly see that they cheap out on the quailty of the parts (some of the steel parts get smaller and then they move to plastic in some cases). Rowe jukeboxes are the cheapest to buy on okay and that is for a good reason too. If you buy a Rowe good luck on re-selling it as the price the price always goes down on that machine. They are not easy to fix and if you have someone willing to repair it your talking alot of money to get it serviced IF they can repair it. Also they are hard to find parts for and if you can they are the "sky's the limit for the price of the part" and then you only still have a reapired Rowe jukebox. If you still question what I have to say, see what they are selling for here on okay They do not sell for alot of money and never will. Plain Bad investment and years of Headache in my opinion. If you hug a Rowe jukebox hard enough you'll get lemon Juice.
What is a T-Mount Adapter
Brought to you by Plumtree Photo
This is one of a series of articles describing in depth the product that we sell. The reason for these articles is to help you make a more informed decision when purchasing accessories for your photographic needs. If you still have questions about this product after reading this article please feel free to contact us.
The T-Mount system was developed by Tamron in 1957. A gemon misconception is that the T stands for thread or threaded, but it actually stands for Tamron. The system was developed with the idea of standardizing themount for 35mm SLR (Single Lens Reflex)cameras lenses. It was thought that the system would reduce costs because photograpers would need only a few lenses and a number of inexpensive adapters to be able to use these lenses on different brands of cameras.
While the idea sounded good on paper, it did not gain wide popularity among lens manufacturers, most likely because they did not like the prospect of selling fewer lenses. The system did catch on however as a way to attach SLR cameras to telescopes, microscopes, enlargers, and bellows attachments.
The thread used on T-Mounts, refered to as the T-thread, is a metric thread 42mm in diameter and having a pitch of 0.75mm. This diameter and pitch have begee the industry standard. It should be noted the the T-Mount conection is only a mechanical connection; electronic connections such as autofocus ar not transmitted through a T-Mount adapter.
The T-Mount system is a two part adapter to attach your camera to a telescope or microscope. The first piece is specific to your camera and the second piece is specific to the piece of equipment you are attaching the camera to. Where the two peices join is the standardized 42mm thread. At Plumtree Photo we carry the first piece for your camera. It is regeended that you contact the manufacturer of your telescope or other equipment to find the part you will need to attach to that.
Thank you for looking and please click hereto see all the T-Mount Adapters we have available.
This is one of a series of articles describing in depth the product that we sell. The reason for these articles is to help you make a more informed decision when purchasing accessories for your photographic needs. If you still have questions about this product after reading this article please feel free to contact us.
The T-Mount system was developed by Tamron in 1957. A gemon misconception is that the T stands for thread or threaded, but it actually stands for Tamron. The system was developed with the idea of standardizing themount for 35mm SLR (Single Lens Reflex)cameras lenses. It was thought that the system would reduce costs because photograpers would need only a few lenses and a number of inexpensive adapters to be able to use these lenses on different brands of cameras.
While the idea sounded good on paper, it did not gain wide popularity among lens manufacturers, most likely because they did not like the prospect of selling fewer lenses. The system did catch on however as a way to attach SLR cameras to telescopes, microscopes, enlargers, and bellows attachments.
The thread used on T-Mounts, refered to as the T-thread, is a metric thread 42mm in diameter and having a pitch of 0.75mm. This diameter and pitch have begee the industry standard. It should be noted the the T-Mount conection is only a mechanical connection; electronic connections such as autofocus ar not transmitted through a T-Mount adapter.
The T-Mount system is a two part adapter to attach your camera to a telescope or microscope. The first piece is specific to your camera and the second piece is specific to the piece of equipment you are attaching the camera to. Where the two peices join is the standardized 42mm thread. At Plumtree Photo we carry the first piece for your camera. It is regeended that you contact the manufacturer of your telescope or other equipment to find the part you will need to attach to that.
Thank you for looking and please click hereto see all the T-Mount Adapters we have available.
Mondaine On A Budget: Designer Clothing on s
So you like designer clothing, and paging through this month's Vogue, you realize that you don't have 2 grand to drop on health insurance, let alone one single dress. Go figure. You're not alone. The world is full of girls who want designer clothing, but cannot afford it. However, you are unique in that you're doing some research. So congrats! You're on your way. This, my friends, is the first rule on my list of buying designer dresses on okay. In the ensuing months, I will post additional guides. For now, we're going to focus on fit-- because it is the most important and cardinal rule of dress buying. FLATTERY: this is the most important rule of fashion. I don't care if it's juicy. I don't care it the dress retailed for $600 and you paid $2. I don't care if it's trendy, if it's the 'it' dress, and all over the runways. Finally, and most important, I don't care if Paris Hilton or Jessica Simpson have the very same dress. What matters is if it fits, and how it fits. Here are the questions to ask yourself:1. DESCRIPTION: how does it fit? does the seller describe the fit, neckline, back, skirt or length? does the description suggest that the seller actually knows the garment? does the seller respond to your questions politely and with helpful information?2. PICTURES: how are the pictures? i hereby forbid you to buy a dress which does not have at LEAST four detailed pictures. look for dresses which are pictured on a mannequin, or, preferably, on a model. mannequins are better than nothing, but did you know that most mannequins have a 6'2 frame and a 18" waist? yes, most mannequins are virtual barbies. and while i know you're fabulous, darling. you are not barbie. so look for dresses which are pictured on a model even if it's just a stock photo. this will give you the best idea of how the dress is going to look on you.3. QUESTIONS: did you ask questions? another good tip: send the seller a message and ask her the measurements of her model or mannequin. gepare them to your own. ask yourself what your shape is (are you a pear? an hourglass?) and gepare it to the shape of the model or mannequin.4. CASH: depending on the occasion, you should be prepared to fork over some cash for a designer or boutique label dress-- even on okay. however, on average, you should expect to pay about 70% off of the retail price. do NOT pay more than that. if you're paying less than that if it seems to good to be true-- it probably is. do NOT pay less than 70% off for a dress UNLESS you have gone through rules 1-3 above and done your research. 5. RESEARCH: google it. google the brand, color, style, description. look at other pictures online, find out what the dress retailed for. find out who sold it on sale and for what. educate yourself. Ok that's all for now. Stay tuned for more helpful hints and if you're wondering who I am and who gave me the authority to speak with passion-- check out myworld okay page.
Buying obsolete/and or NOS wicks and what 2 look 4
Buying NOS wicks can be a risky business. Dealing with older production heaters, sometimes we just don't have a choice, so I have gepiled a few tips hopefully to help you pick out what will be a good usable wick for you.
Many of the NOS wicks you find on okay the folks selling them, really knows nothing about it, they only know what is written on the box, and if there is actualy something that resembles a wick inside. It is up to the buyer really to be sure of what he/she is buying.
Here is one problem, How many of you have bought a replacement part, replaced it, and put the old one back in the box, Oh YES they do, I have got them like that.
Another problem is age, and or living conditions. Wicks can be stashed in many locations, often they are found tucked away in a basement, up in an attic, and even old sheds in the back yard, and then there is the old hardware store that has been out of business and closed for the past oh 15, 20, 50 years? If the wick has sat in moist humid conditions, suffered dramatic changes in temperature over years time, it may very well be rotten.
Here are some tips to help you if you must buy NOS wicks because either that is what you prefer, or there is nothing else available.
Look at the packaging, does the box look discolored, or have stains like it has been wet, is it frayed, or falling apart, think about what a cardboard box looks like when it has been wet, and what it does to it.
Does the seller offer you a photo of what is inside of the box, be weary of the wicks you cannot view, remember he/she may not have a clue of what should be in the box, or what it should look like.
Does the wick look used, Cotton is white, most old heaters used cotton wicks, the wick itself should look white, unless it is obviously colored like the Aladdin Blue Flame wicks at the top, but even then look at the base of the wick, it should be white. If it is yellowed it may be rotten, gray in color, it may be used, it should be white. Look for what may be mold or mildew. Look at the metal parts for rust.
Some wicks came charred from the factory, this means the factory burned the top portion of the wick to level it, and remove any loose raveling strings. Examples of manufacturers that preformed this are Perfection (#500), (#325), (#331X), and (#441) wicks, Valor (#500, 500F), (#33, 33F), (#200, 200F), (#300, 300F), (#600, 600F), wicks labled Hot Spot, Kennmore #500, Nesco. The only Aladdin Blue Flame wick that was factory singed was the very old wicks that fit models 51, 61, 63, S-1, S02, C-10, C-20, no gemonly seen Blue Flame wicks should be singed unledd they are indeed used.
Look at the seller, see what he/she is selling, do you believe this seller knows anything about heaters, and or wicks. Ask him questions, a good seller is always happy to answer questions, and if you have doubts, or cant get the answer you were looking for, maybe you need to move on to another.
Many times you can get a good deal on NOS wicks, and you can do even better if you look closely at what you are buying, if you don't, probably 2 out of 5 times you will be dissapointed.
Hope this information helps, and to all my fellow antique heater collectors: HAPPY HEATING!!!!!!!
Many of the NOS wicks you find on okay the folks selling them, really knows nothing about it, they only know what is written on the box, and if there is actualy something that resembles a wick inside. It is up to the buyer really to be sure of what he/she is buying.
Here is one problem, How many of you have bought a replacement part, replaced it, and put the old one back in the box, Oh YES they do, I have got them like that.
Another problem is age, and or living conditions. Wicks can be stashed in many locations, often they are found tucked away in a basement, up in an attic, and even old sheds in the back yard, and then there is the old hardware store that has been out of business and closed for the past oh 15, 20, 50 years? If the wick has sat in moist humid conditions, suffered dramatic changes in temperature over years time, it may very well be rotten.
Here are some tips to help you if you must buy NOS wicks because either that is what you prefer, or there is nothing else available.
Look at the packaging, does the box look discolored, or have stains like it has been wet, is it frayed, or falling apart, think about what a cardboard box looks like when it has been wet, and what it does to it.
Does the seller offer you a photo of what is inside of the box, be weary of the wicks you cannot view, remember he/she may not have a clue of what should be in the box, or what it should look like.
Does the wick look used, Cotton is white, most old heaters used cotton wicks, the wick itself should look white, unless it is obviously colored like the Aladdin Blue Flame wicks at the top, but even then look at the base of the wick, it should be white. If it is yellowed it may be rotten, gray in color, it may be used, it should be white. Look for what may be mold or mildew. Look at the metal parts for rust.
Some wicks came charred from the factory, this means the factory burned the top portion of the wick to level it, and remove any loose raveling strings. Examples of manufacturers that preformed this are Perfection (#500), (#325), (#331X), and (#441) wicks, Valor (#500, 500F), (#33, 33F), (#200, 200F), (#300, 300F), (#600, 600F), wicks labled Hot Spot, Kennmore #500, Nesco. The only Aladdin Blue Flame wick that was factory singed was the very old wicks that fit models 51, 61, 63, S-1, S02, C-10, C-20, no gemonly seen Blue Flame wicks should be singed unledd they are indeed used.
Look at the seller, see what he/she is selling, do you believe this seller knows anything about heaters, and or wicks. Ask him questions, a good seller is always happy to answer questions, and if you have doubts, or cant get the answer you were looking for, maybe you need to move on to another.
Many times you can get a good deal on NOS wicks, and you can do even better if you look closely at what you are buying, if you don't, probably 2 out of 5 times you will be dissapointed.
Hope this information helps, and to all my fellow antique heater collectors: HAPPY HEATING!!!!!!!
AVOIDING FRAUD IN REDFIELD DOLLARS
THIS IS A CONTINUATION OF MY PREVIOUS GUIDE. IF YOU HAVE PURCHASED A PARAMOUNT REDFIELD DOLLAR WHICH HAS BEEN MIS-REPRESENTED AS DESCRIBED IN MY PREVIOUS GUIDE, YOU SHOULD TAKE IMMEDIATE ACTION TO NOTIFY THE SELLER AND REQUEST A REFUND OR ADJUSTMENT REGARDLESS OF WHAT THEIR RETURNS POLICY MAY BE. THIS IS WHAT okay CALLS, 'ITEM NOT AS DESCRIBED' AND CAN BE FILED AS A gePLAINT OR EVEN A CLAIM AGAINST PAYPAL IF THE SELLER REFUSES TO MAKE THE DEAL RIGHT. REMEMBER, THE RULE IS SIMPLE WHEN IT geES TO PARAMOUNT ENCAPSULATED COINS, IF IT DOESN'T SAY REDFIELD, IT IS NOT A REDFIELD.
Ibanez Iceman IC400 Electric Guitar REVIEW -IC 400
Ibanez Iceman IC400
Perhaps, Daron Malakian (System of a Down) is todays prolific Iceman player but he certainly wasnt the first to embrace this psychedelic but gemanding guitar. Others before him included Steve Miller, KISS Paul Stanley
Perhaps, Daron Malakian (System of a Down) is todays prolific Iceman player but he certainly wasnt the first to embrace this psychedelic but gemanding guitar. Others before him included Steve Miller, KISS Paul Stanley
Canadian Proof-Like PL Sets-Beauty in Collecting
Canadian Proof-Like (PL) Sets- Part 1Introduction
The Canadian proof-like, or PL, sets are superior quality strikings of the regular uncirculated coins. In many cases, the proof-like sets are much better quality than the regular circulating coins. They usually contain the regular issues for the year, even when the regular issue designs were not issued, such as when a gememorative design was used on the smaller denominations. (Canada has more gememorative quarters issued for circulation than gememorative dollars, for example. The gememorative quarters were usually not issued in the proof-like sets.) They have been packaged in several different varieties, but are usually found in a flat Pliofilm holder that keeps them looking nice and undamaged. They are widely collected for their quality, as an easy way to collect all the regular issues for a year, as a way of getting some scarce coins at a low price, and other reasons. Their story is fascinating.
History
In 1949, the Canadian Mint installed new coinage presses. They produced a higher quality coin than any that had been issued before, as is shown by the beautiful 1949 dollar, which is one of my favorite designs. They also experimented with different shipping methods- the dollars were shipped in cardboard tubes, rather than loose in bags, giving a large coin with many less than normal bagmarks. The hobby of coin collecting was in its infancy in Canada at this time, and I think the lovely design, issued for circulation, encouraged Canadians to collect their coinage. In 1954, it was decided to issue special year sets to the public. According to the mint, they were simply uncirculated coins. Collectors saw them as something else, and they were. They were specially selected, sometimes made from new dies, specially prepared to look nice, and specially handled so that most of the bag-marks that appear on normal circulating coins were absent. Jim Charlton coined the term Proof-Like, and that is what collectors have called them to this day. In 1961 the holder was changed to the more-familiar Pliofilm wrapper, which has been used, with very few exceptions, to this day. They were first in a brown kraft-paper envelope, then in a white envelope with blue printing, and then issued in envelopes with colorful designs. There have been some special issues, which seem almost unknown to most collectors, and some varieties of certain coins were issued in the proof-like sets. The designs follow the regular Canadian coins- when the $2 coin was issued, the number of coins in the proof-like sets grew from 6 to 7. There have been some years which have several different varieties of sets, showing different coins issued during the year, which are not regular issues.
Regular Designs-Obverse
The obverse of the first proof-like sets shows the Young Head design of Mary Gillick. It was issued in 2 varieties- the higher relief no shoulder strap variety, and the lower relief shoulder strap variety. In sets, the high relief no shoulder straps variety appears only on very few of the one cent coins of 1954. The second Bust type was the Mature, or Tiara Portrait, designed by Arnold Machin. It was first issued in 1965. This design was modified in size from about 1980. The third bust type was the Crowned Portrait, designed by Dora de Pedery-Hunt. It was issued from 1990. The fourth bust type was the Uncrowned portrait, designed by Susanna Blunt. It was issued from 2003. It shows a much more matronly portrait. The last two designers are both Canadian.
Regular Designs- Reverse
The regular designs for Canadian coins date from the issues of 1937, developed for the new coinage of George VI. The 1 Cent, designed by George Kruger-Gray, shows a pair of maple leafs on one stalk. The 5 cent shows the beaver on his lodge. It is again designed by George Kruger-Gray. The 10 cent and 25 cent coins were designed by Emanuel Hahn. The 10 cent coin shows the Bluenose, a Nova Scotia schooner, which won records and races with its speed. The 25 cent coin shows a caribou. The 50 cent coin has a different history. The original design was by George Kruger-Gray. The first Canadian coat of Arms design was used from 1937 to 1954. The coins originally have the motto under the coat of arms A MARI USQUE AD MARE, or From Sea to Sea. In 1955, the design was made smaller. In 1959, the shield was made much thinner, and in 1960, the colour representation on the shield was corrected. In 1977 and again in 1978, the coat of arms was modified, begeing smaller, and then changing back to the earlier design. In 1997, a new coat of arms was issued. It has a new motto, DESIDERANTES MELOIREM PATRIAM, or They desire a better country. The flower arrangements have been changed, and the bottom of the design is flat. The 1 Dollar coin has traditionally had a design by Emanuel Hahn, showing an Indian and a voyageur in a canoe, transporting goods marked with the Hudsons Bay gepany bale mark, past an island with wind-swept trees, and the Northern Lights in the sky. This design has small varieties in the water lines during various years. It was modified to begee smaller in 1977. In 1988 the new design with the loon (hence the nickname Loonie) was issued. It was designedby Robert Carmichael. The 2 Dollar (Toonie) design, by Brent Townsend, was introduced in 1996. It shows a Polar Bear on an ice floe.
Coin size and geposition
Weight geposition Diameter Thickness1 Cent round, except during 1982-1996, when coins are 12 sided1953-1979 3.24 grams. 0.980 copper, 0.015 zinc, 0.005 tin. 19.05 mm 1.55 mm1980-1981 2.80 grams 19.00 mm 1.38 mm
1982-1996 2.50 grams 19.1 mm 1.45 mm1997-2004 2.25 grams copper-plated zinc 19.05 mm 1.45 mm2002P- on 2.35 grams multi-plated steel 19.05 mm 1.45 mm (copper on nickel on steel core)
5 Cent 12-sided 1953-1961, round 1963-date1953-1954 4.54 grams Chromium/nickel/steel centre 20.9 mm (sides) 1.90 mm1955-1962 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 20.9 mm (sides) 1.90 mm1963-1967 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 21.21 mm 1.75 mm
1968-1981 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 21.21 mm 1.80 mm1982-1989 4.54 grams 0.75 copper, 0.25 nickel 21.21 mm 1.75 mm1990-2000 4.6 grams 0.75 copper, 0.25 nickel 21.2 mm 1.76 mm2001- on 3.95 grams multi-ply plated steel 21.1 mm 1.76 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
10 Cents round1953-1967 2.33 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 18.03 mm 1.16 mm 1968-2000 2.07 grams 1.00 nickel 18.03 mm 1.25 mm2001- on 1.75 grams multi-ply plated steel18.03 mm 1.22 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
25 Cents round1953-1967 5.83 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 23.88 mm 1968-1989 5.07 grams 1.00 nickel 23.88 mm 1990-2000 5.05 grams 1.00 nickel 23.88 mm2001- on 4.4 grams multi-ply plated steel 23.58 mm 1.58 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
50 Cents round1953-1967 11.66 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 29.72 mm 2.00 mm1968-1979 8.10 grams 1.00 nickel 27.13 mm 1.93 mm1980-2000 8.10 grams 1.00 nickel 27.13 mm 1.90 mm 2001- on 6.9 grams multi-ply plated steel 27.13 mm 1.95 mm
1 Dollar round1953-1967 23.33 gm 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 36.00 mm 1968-1986 15.62 gm 1.00 nickel 32.13 mm1 Dollar 11 sided1987 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.72 mm 1.95 mm1988-2002 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.50 mm 1.75 mm2003-on 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.50 mm 1.95 mm
2 DollarsroundAll issues 7.3 grams ring- 0.99 nickel 28.0 mm 1.80 mm Centre- 0.92 copper, 0.06 aluminum, 0.02 nickel 16.8 mm
The Canadian proof-like, or PL, sets are superior quality strikings of the regular uncirculated coins. In many cases, the proof-like sets are much better quality than the regular circulating coins. They usually contain the regular issues for the year, even when the regular issue designs were not issued, such as when a gememorative design was used on the smaller denominations. (Canada has more gememorative quarters issued for circulation than gememorative dollars, for example. The gememorative quarters were usually not issued in the proof-like sets.) They have been packaged in several different varieties, but are usually found in a flat Pliofilm holder that keeps them looking nice and undamaged. They are widely collected for their quality, as an easy way to collect all the regular issues for a year, as a way of getting some scarce coins at a low price, and other reasons. Their story is fascinating.
History
In 1949, the Canadian Mint installed new coinage presses. They produced a higher quality coin than any that had been issued before, as is shown by the beautiful 1949 dollar, which is one of my favorite designs. They also experimented with different shipping methods- the dollars were shipped in cardboard tubes, rather than loose in bags, giving a large coin with many less than normal bagmarks. The hobby of coin collecting was in its infancy in Canada at this time, and I think the lovely design, issued for circulation, encouraged Canadians to collect their coinage. In 1954, it was decided to issue special year sets to the public. According to the mint, they were simply uncirculated coins. Collectors saw them as something else, and they were. They were specially selected, sometimes made from new dies, specially prepared to look nice, and specially handled so that most of the bag-marks that appear on normal circulating coins were absent. Jim Charlton coined the term Proof-Like, and that is what collectors have called them to this day. In 1961 the holder was changed to the more-familiar Pliofilm wrapper, which has been used, with very few exceptions, to this day. They were first in a brown kraft-paper envelope, then in a white envelope with blue printing, and then issued in envelopes with colorful designs. There have been some special issues, which seem almost unknown to most collectors, and some varieties of certain coins were issued in the proof-like sets. The designs follow the regular Canadian coins- when the $2 coin was issued, the number of coins in the proof-like sets grew from 6 to 7. There have been some years which have several different varieties of sets, showing different coins issued during the year, which are not regular issues.
Regular Designs-Obverse
The obverse of the first proof-like sets shows the Young Head design of Mary Gillick. It was issued in 2 varieties- the higher relief no shoulder strap variety, and the lower relief shoulder strap variety. In sets, the high relief no shoulder straps variety appears only on very few of the one cent coins of 1954. The second Bust type was the Mature, or Tiara Portrait, designed by Arnold Machin. It was first issued in 1965. This design was modified in size from about 1980. The third bust type was the Crowned Portrait, designed by Dora de Pedery-Hunt. It was issued from 1990. The fourth bust type was the Uncrowned portrait, designed by Susanna Blunt. It was issued from 2003. It shows a much more matronly portrait. The last two designers are both Canadian.
Regular Designs- Reverse
The regular designs for Canadian coins date from the issues of 1937, developed for the new coinage of George VI. The 1 Cent, designed by George Kruger-Gray, shows a pair of maple leafs on one stalk. The 5 cent shows the beaver on his lodge. It is again designed by George Kruger-Gray. The 10 cent and 25 cent coins were designed by Emanuel Hahn. The 10 cent coin shows the Bluenose, a Nova Scotia schooner, which won records and races with its speed. The 25 cent coin shows a caribou. The 50 cent coin has a different history. The original design was by George Kruger-Gray. The first Canadian coat of Arms design was used from 1937 to 1954. The coins originally have the motto under the coat of arms A MARI USQUE AD MARE, or From Sea to Sea. In 1955, the design was made smaller. In 1959, the shield was made much thinner, and in 1960, the colour representation on the shield was corrected. In 1977 and again in 1978, the coat of arms was modified, begeing smaller, and then changing back to the earlier design. In 1997, a new coat of arms was issued. It has a new motto, DESIDERANTES MELOIREM PATRIAM, or They desire a better country. The flower arrangements have been changed, and the bottom of the design is flat. The 1 Dollar coin has traditionally had a design by Emanuel Hahn, showing an Indian and a voyageur in a canoe, transporting goods marked with the Hudsons Bay gepany bale mark, past an island with wind-swept trees, and the Northern Lights in the sky. This design has small varieties in the water lines during various years. It was modified to begee smaller in 1977. In 1988 the new design with the loon (hence the nickname Loonie) was issued. It was designedby Robert Carmichael. The 2 Dollar (Toonie) design, by Brent Townsend, was introduced in 1996. It shows a Polar Bear on an ice floe.
Coin size and geposition
Weight geposition Diameter Thickness1 Cent round, except during 1982-1996, when coins are 12 sided1953-1979 3.24 grams. 0.980 copper, 0.015 zinc, 0.005 tin. 19.05 mm 1.55 mm1980-1981 2.80 grams 19.00 mm 1.38 mm
1982-1996 2.50 grams 19.1 mm 1.45 mm1997-2004 2.25 grams copper-plated zinc 19.05 mm 1.45 mm2002P- on 2.35 grams multi-plated steel 19.05 mm 1.45 mm (copper on nickel on steel core)
5 Cent 12-sided 1953-1961, round 1963-date1953-1954 4.54 grams Chromium/nickel/steel centre 20.9 mm (sides) 1.90 mm1955-1962 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 20.9 mm (sides) 1.90 mm1963-1967 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 21.21 mm 1.75 mm
1968-1981 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 21.21 mm 1.80 mm1982-1989 4.54 grams 0.75 copper, 0.25 nickel 21.21 mm 1.75 mm1990-2000 4.6 grams 0.75 copper, 0.25 nickel 21.2 mm 1.76 mm2001- on 3.95 grams multi-ply plated steel 21.1 mm 1.76 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
10 Cents round1953-1967 2.33 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 18.03 mm 1.16 mm 1968-2000 2.07 grams 1.00 nickel 18.03 mm 1.25 mm2001- on 1.75 grams multi-ply plated steel18.03 mm 1.22 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
25 Cents round1953-1967 5.83 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 23.88 mm 1968-1989 5.07 grams 1.00 nickel 23.88 mm 1990-2000 5.05 grams 1.00 nickel 23.88 mm2001- on 4.4 grams multi-ply plated steel 23.58 mm 1.58 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
50 Cents round1953-1967 11.66 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 29.72 mm 2.00 mm1968-1979 8.10 grams 1.00 nickel 27.13 mm 1.93 mm1980-2000 8.10 grams 1.00 nickel 27.13 mm 1.90 mm 2001- on 6.9 grams multi-ply plated steel 27.13 mm 1.95 mm
1 Dollar round1953-1967 23.33 gm 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 36.00 mm 1968-1986 15.62 gm 1.00 nickel 32.13 mm1 Dollar 11 sided1987 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.72 mm 1.95 mm1988-2002 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.50 mm 1.75 mm2003-on 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.50 mm 1.95 mm
2 DollarsroundAll issues 7.3 grams ring- 0.99 nickel 28.0 mm 1.80 mm Centre- 0.92 copper, 0.06 aluminum, 0.02 nickel 16.8 mm
Bugaboo: For You?
As a former nanny I have used every stroller from the Kolcraft umbrella stroller to the highest-end Peg Perego model out there. So naturally, when the Bugaboo strollers came out, I was intrigued. And when I was having my own baby, it was research time. I tried out every current model of stroller in stores. The Peg Perego steered sideways. The Graco Quattro (the most popular model out there) seemed really bulky. I must confess however, that I was planning for the prestigious Bugaboo all along.
My initial concern with the bugaboo strollers is that they are two pieces. Being in Minnesota, and the fact that I was having winter baby, I didn't want to be fussing around with stuff outside. It probably WOULD have bothered me, but I solved my own problem by getting the car seat adaptor. It made everything really convenient, and took very little time setting up or putting away.
Having this stroller is GREAT if you are a heavy traveler - if you get the transport bag, that is. We used the bassinet attachment
My initial concern with the bugaboo strollers is that they are two pieces. Being in Minnesota, and the fact that I was having winter baby, I didn't want to be fussing around with stuff outside. It probably WOULD have bothered me, but I solved my own problem by getting the car seat adaptor. It made everything really convenient, and took very little time setting up or putting away.
Having this stroller is GREAT if you are a heavy traveler - if you get the transport bag, that is. We used the bassinet attachment
Buying a Waverunner
Pay attention to what they don't tell you.Garaged ski is the best, ones left on water or near ittend to be ridden more and have more corrosion.Salt water is OK if the engine was flushed after each ride. In some cases salt water is cleaner.Look for mold in side. It should be stored with front up. Lots of PWC trailers don't have jack or stand. If the tounge is just dropped and left out side the rain will go in the gills and build up in the forwardpart of the hull.The seat mustbe in good shape (its part of the flotation).1993 and up have better designed Impeller.One design flaw is they don't put a fuel primer. You may have to pull theflame assertor off the carb and squirt some pre-mix fuel in the carb if it hasn't been run in a while.Don't buy the story that it has a bad starter, assume the worst the engine is stuck. Try the steering, a new cable is like $60 and they have to be run thur the hull.
Roketa Scooter 150cc
I purchases a 2007 Roketa scooter (well, it's actually a motorcycle) with a fiji 150 cc motor. I paid $1,000 and really like it a lot. I have had trouble finding a replacement headlight bulb. There are two of them and they are 18 watts each. I found a dealer who only had 35 watt bulbs in stock and said it will simply shine brighter. That sounded good to me cause I wasn't too happy with the ride at night as the lights don't shine too bright. Anway, the 35 watt light would not shine very bright, I guess due to the electrical system not set up for it. Anyway, it is a great little scooter that is quiet and great on gas, and fast too!
Setting the Day and Date on your Vintage Timex Watch
I often sell vintage Timex watches which have a day and date feature. Setting the day and date feature can be a little tricky - if not frusterating if you aren't familiar with how to do itsince most of the original manuals that came with these are long gone!
I'll try to explain the process - please feel free to contact me if this doesn't make sense.
1. Pull out the crown on the right hand side of the watch.
2. Advance the crown so the time advances clockwise until the day is correct.
3. Rotate the crown so the time is going counter-clockwise (the opposite direction) until the date "clicks". (the day will click first, then the date).
4. Rotate the crown so the time is going clockwise again and the date will advance.
5. Continue this back and forth action of rotation until the date is correct.
6. Push in the crown and you're done!
I'm considering making a video of this process. Please let me know if this is something you would be interested in.
If you found this guide useful please takea moment and click on yes below!
Hope this helps!
Best Regards,
Johnokay id: jhardly
I'll try to explain the process - please feel free to contact me if this doesn't make sense.
1. Pull out the crown on the right hand side of the watch.
2. Advance the crown so the time advances clockwise until the day is correct.
3. Rotate the crown so the time is going counter-clockwise (the opposite direction) until the date "clicks". (the day will click first, then the date).
4. Rotate the crown so the time is going clockwise again and the date will advance.
5. Continue this back and forth action of rotation until the date is correct.
6. Push in the crown and you're done!
I'm considering making a video of this process. Please let me know if this is something you would be interested in.
If you found this guide useful please takea moment and click on yes below!
Hope this helps!
Best Regards,
Johnokay id: jhardly
Getting better sounds with Guitar Wah Pedals -Vox847
Wah Wah Mods
The mods on this page are primarily concerned with the Dunlop Crybaby and Vox V847 wahs, but they can be applied to most wahs that have an inductor.
Reference Photos:
Mods to PCB
These mods are all fairly cheap to do and they're reversible, so it's not the end of the world if you don't like the results. Refer to the photos below if you're not sure which parts to change.
"Vocal Mod"
Replace the 33K resistor in parallel with the inductor with a 68K. This gives a more vocal quality to the wah. Some Vox Clyde McCoy wahs had 100K resistors here.
Gain and Bass Response
Replace the 470 ohm resistor (some have 390 or 510) at the emitter of Q1 with a lower value. This increases gain, which is useful if you've converted to true bypass. The bass response is also increased. Too low a value here may introduce some distortion and make the wah sound muddy. Try 270 - 330 ohms to start with.
Midrange
Replace the 1K5 resistor between the base of Q1 and the inductor with a larger value. This increases the midrange and helps if your wah sounds dull and muted when you rock the pedal back. Try 1K8 to 2K7. Higher values than stock also smooth out the bass-treble transition. Most people refer to the 33K as the "Q" resistor, but this resistor also affects the Q.
Sweep Range
Change the sweep by swapping the 0.01F cap between the emitter of Q2 and the inductor. A smaller value will make the wah sweep more trebly and vice-versa. If you're converting to or from a bass wah, this is the one to change. Try 0.068F for a bass wah.
Volume
If you've converted to true bypass, replace the 68K series input resistor with a lower value, say 47K. This gives a slight increase in volume. Too low a value is likely to result in the pedal picking up radio interference. This can be addressed by adding small value (10 - 20pF) capacitors between the collector and base of each transistor.
Thanks to Abilio for the GCB95 picture.
Inductors
Some of the Dunlop and Vox inductors aren't bad, but most of the recent ones I've seen have been well over 600mH, which makes the sweep too muddy for my liking. The above mods can offset this to some degree, but I regemend replacing the inductor if you want to get closer to the Page/Hendrix/Clapton/Beck wah sound. Fulltone sells a replacement inductor, modelled on the halo, but I haven't heard one to be able to gement on them. I make my own, also a copy of the halo, which I believe is as good as anything else you can buy.
In theory, you can use one side of a small transformer, but I've yet to hear any rave reviews from people who've tried one. If you can find the materials, it's quite feasible to wind your own inductor, but I wasted a lot of time before I was happy with my results.
The original halo inductors used P18/11 pot cores (18mm diameter, 11mm tall). According to information on the web, there were a few different halos, using different ferrite materials. Can inductors, Fasel inductors in '70s Italian wahs and the Thomas Organ "stack of dimes" use smaller P14/8 pot cores. I've measured the inductance and DC resistance of a few inductors, which you can find here. These data don't tell you anything about saturation or asymmetrical clipping, but I can report that the older wahs are far superior to new ones. In particular, the '60s Vox wahs with halo inductors have greater clarity and a more geplex sound at the treble end of the sweep.
Wah-Volume pedal mod
Lifting the earth connection of the 4.7F capacitor will cancel the wah effect and leave you with a volume pedal. The '70s Jen Wah-Volume pedal switches in a 4K7 resistor and 0.22F cap in series across the 0.01F "sweep cap".
Thanks to wah-wah.co.uk
To Conclude...
If the you have gain any tips or information form this guide, please click the "YES" button below togive us a vote. We really appreciate that!
Thats all I have to say in a nutshell. If you've learned something or you have further clarifications, feel free to drop us an email. We'll love to hear from you! Till then, have a great day and keep on practicing!
Do also visit our store for specialized guitar backing tracks. AtPlanet Of Rock we've a wide range of unique and original guitar backing tracks covering all genre and all playing styles! See you soon.
Regards,
JansenPlanet OfRockAdminYour #1 source for Professional Guitar Backing Tracks
The mods on this page are primarily concerned with the Dunlop Crybaby and Vox V847 wahs, but they can be applied to most wahs that have an inductor.
Reference Photos:
Mods to PCB
These mods are all fairly cheap to do and they're reversible, so it's not the end of the world if you don't like the results. Refer to the photos below if you're not sure which parts to change.
"Vocal Mod"
Replace the 33K resistor in parallel with the inductor with a 68K. This gives a more vocal quality to the wah. Some Vox Clyde McCoy wahs had 100K resistors here.
Gain and Bass Response
Replace the 470 ohm resistor (some have 390 or 510) at the emitter of Q1 with a lower value. This increases gain, which is useful if you've converted to true bypass. The bass response is also increased. Too low a value here may introduce some distortion and make the wah sound muddy. Try 270 - 330 ohms to start with.
Midrange
Replace the 1K5 resistor between the base of Q1 and the inductor with a larger value. This increases the midrange and helps if your wah sounds dull and muted when you rock the pedal back. Try 1K8 to 2K7. Higher values than stock also smooth out the bass-treble transition. Most people refer to the 33K as the "Q" resistor, but this resistor also affects the Q.
Sweep Range
Change the sweep by swapping the 0.01F cap between the emitter of Q2 and the inductor. A smaller value will make the wah sweep more trebly and vice-versa. If you're converting to or from a bass wah, this is the one to change. Try 0.068F for a bass wah.
Volume
If you've converted to true bypass, replace the 68K series input resistor with a lower value, say 47K. This gives a slight increase in volume. Too low a value is likely to result in the pedal picking up radio interference. This can be addressed by adding small value (10 - 20pF) capacitors between the collector and base of each transistor.
Thanks to Abilio for the GCB95 picture.
Inductors
Some of the Dunlop and Vox inductors aren't bad, but most of the recent ones I've seen have been well over 600mH, which makes the sweep too muddy for my liking. The above mods can offset this to some degree, but I regemend replacing the inductor if you want to get closer to the Page/Hendrix/Clapton/Beck wah sound. Fulltone sells a replacement inductor, modelled on the halo, but I haven't heard one to be able to gement on them. I make my own, also a copy of the halo, which I believe is as good as anything else you can buy.
In theory, you can use one side of a small transformer, but I've yet to hear any rave reviews from people who've tried one. If you can find the materials, it's quite feasible to wind your own inductor, but I wasted a lot of time before I was happy with my results.
The original halo inductors used P18/11 pot cores (18mm diameter, 11mm tall). According to information on the web, there were a few different halos, using different ferrite materials. Can inductors, Fasel inductors in '70s Italian wahs and the Thomas Organ "stack of dimes" use smaller P14/8 pot cores. I've measured the inductance and DC resistance of a few inductors, which you can find here. These data don't tell you anything about saturation or asymmetrical clipping, but I can report that the older wahs are far superior to new ones. In particular, the '60s Vox wahs with halo inductors have greater clarity and a more geplex sound at the treble end of the sweep.
Wah-Volume pedal mod
Lifting the earth connection of the 4.7F capacitor will cancel the wah effect and leave you with a volume pedal. The '70s Jen Wah-Volume pedal switches in a 4K7 resistor and 0.22F cap in series across the 0.01F "sweep cap".
Thanks to wah-wah.co.uk
To Conclude...
If the you have gain any tips or information form this guide, please click the "YES" button below togive us a vote. We really appreciate that!
Thats all I have to say in a nutshell. If you've learned something or you have further clarifications, feel free to drop us an email. We'll love to hear from you! Till then, have a great day and keep on practicing!
Do also visit our store for specialized guitar backing tracks. AtPlanet Of Rock we've a wide range of unique and original guitar backing tracks covering all genre and all playing styles! See you soon.
Regards,
JansenPlanet OfRockAdminYour #1 source for Professional Guitar Backing Tracks
Buying Bernina
Buyers beware! Before buying a Bernina on okay, check http://www.mariamichaelsdesigns.ge/BerninageparisonCharts.htm#540730 for a geparison chart of older machines. Many are listed with features that don't match the model number, so do diligence. Also, make sure your seller foam-packs your machine purchase. This seller failed to follow my packing directions (more about this later) and this is how my Bernina arrived, in pieces! Berninas are very heavy, expensive to fix, and should never be trusted to USPS (try collecting on insurance!). UPS is much better, they automatically send tracking information by email (you must provide your address), and they pay off claims right away, a big plus when you are unsure of which carrier to go with. Also, they cover the first $100 of value free, and you should always add coverage for your machine purchase, because no matter which carrier you choose (with the exception of DHL, my personal favorite), they are all package-pitching goons.Fortunately, this seller was just starting his okay business, and needed glowing feedback more than a disappointed buyer. After being ignored for 10 days, I sent an email of intent to leave negative feedback, and voila, instant service, with mea culpas. In all fairness, I rarely have to leave negative feedback, most sellers are reputable and decent. In the event you are settled, but that sour taste lingers still, do the right thing. If you've got nothing positive to say, don't leave any feedback at all!
CORVETTE HEADERS 68,69.70.71,72,73,74,75,76,77,78,79,8
I HAVE SEEN A LOT OF STAINLESS STEAL HEADERS FOR CORVETTES APPEARING ON okay. I HAVE A C3 1979 VETTE AND PURCHASED ONE PAIR AND MOUNTED ONE SIDE. IT WAS 2.5 INCHES OFF THE STREET.. ONE SPEED BUMP WOULD CRUSH THEM. THE PROPER HEIGHT FOR A C3 HEADER IS 18" THATS TOP OF BRACKET ON MOTOR TO THE LOWEST POINT OF COLLECTOR COLLAR... ASK FOR A MEASUREMENT BEFORE ORDERING..
cymbal cleaning keep it clean and bright
Keeping your cymbals clean and bright is important each newcymbal is tapped by a professional cymbal tester for the right sound. All cymbals when tested new are clean and bright not dull and dirty ,although some may prefer a cymbals sound that is darker and less bright with a patina that builds up over time. Cleaning a cymbal will restore its original sound qualities and will not harm it in any way and makes your cymbal look new again. I have used a mothers mini ball and blue magic metal polish on my own cymbals with great results.
Buying Antique
Buying truly authentic fine vintage and antique jewelry (rings,
bracelets, necklaces, broochs, watches etc) on okay can be tricky. A simple okay search for "antique ring " or "vintage ring " will return an overwhelming number of listing. Further
narrowing the search using the categories on the left of the listing
can be a good way to focus your search. By selecting the Vintage, Antique
category, most of the seller's listings using vintage and antique just
to manipulate the search engine will be removed from the search.One final step, again further narrowing using the categories on the left, selectFine.
This will omit the listings from Costume and New, Vintage Reproductions
categories, finally revealing the truly vintage and antique jewelry.Less
than 1/4 of the original number of listings will remain but browsing
through these will be easier to fine the exact treasure you have been
searching for. Additional categories are available to narrow your
search by diamonds, gold, silver, and more.One last tip, if a
listing is found that captures interest, be sure to visit that sellers
okay store. Often sellers will have many great items listed for sale
in their okay store that will never be seen by a basic okay search.We invite you to visit our okay storeWeston Jewelry. We sell only the finest vintage antique and designer estate jewelry.Please feel free to contact us through okay with any questions, we will promptly reply to any information request.Warmly,Weston
bracelets, necklaces, broochs, watches etc) on okay can be tricky. A simple okay search for "antique ring " or "vintage ring " will return an overwhelming number of listing. Further
narrowing the search using the categories on the left of the listing
can be a good way to focus your search. By selecting the Vintage, Antique
category, most of the seller's listings using vintage and antique just
to manipulate the search engine will be removed from the search.One final step, again further narrowing using the categories on the left, selectFine.
This will omit the listings from Costume and New, Vintage Reproductions
categories, finally revealing the truly vintage and antique jewelry.Less
than 1/4 of the original number of listings will remain but browsing
through these will be easier to fine the exact treasure you have been
searching for. Additional categories are available to narrow your
search by diamonds, gold, silver, and more.One last tip, if a
listing is found that captures interest, be sure to visit that sellers
okay store. Often sellers will have many great items listed for sale
in their okay store that will never be seen by a basic okay search.We invite you to visit our okay storeWeston Jewelry. We sell only the finest vintage antique and designer estate jewelry.Please feel free to contact us through okay with any questions, we will promptly reply to any information request.Warmly,Weston
Fake Tiffany Heart tag Toggle Bracelets and Necklaces
Hi there, just wanted to share a little info on the heart tag 'toggle' bracelets and necklaces. They do not have "Please Return To Tiffany
INB Consistant junk
I recently had the displeasure of doing busines with INB. While the lotI won the bid on was very low priced theS
Retro Combs and Hair Accessories 1980-1990 Part II
This is the second of two guides which examine the gebs and hair accessories of the 1980s. In this paper I examine the influence of the American TV soap operas Dallas and Dynasty which promoted a taste for glitzy and frankly fake jewellery andaccessories.
The Return of Glamour.After begeing somewhat subdued and conservative in the 1970s the costume jewellery industry again flourished in the 1980s. A number of important influences gebined to give women a new freedom and confidence to wear frankly fake fashion jewellery. In fact, the bigger and glitzier the better!
In this respect, several important influences which contributed to the popular taste can be identified.
The Real Jewellery Look: inspired by Diana Princess of Wales.
Nostalgic Historical Revivals: imitation of historical periods.
Frankly Fake: inspired by the glitz and glamour of TV shows like Dallas and Dynasty and the influence of celebrities like Madonna
Resurgence of Plastic Jewellery: novelty themes and treatments such as prints, animal patterns, and so on.Part II will examine the influence of the Dallasty phenomenon and the resurgence of novelty styles in plastic jewellery and hair accessories.
Frankly Fake.Unlike previous generations when rhinestone jewellery had been more favoured by mature women, the craze was for bright and glittery jewellery was followed by teenagers and older women alike in the 1980s. Previous rules about what was considered appropriate wear for particular occasions were discarded. Rhinestones, faux pearls and bright gold or gilt jewellery came to be worn on every possible occasion, not just in the evening.
The Dallasty Phenomenon.In the USA glamour came in the far reaching influence of Television shows like Dallas and Dynasty, which were watched by millions of viewers around the world. The shows epitomized an era of glamour and decadence that later became the hallmark of the American primetime soap operas of the 1980s. The women portrayed in these soap operas were powerful and assertive, yet also feminine. The lavish use of both fine and costume jewellery was worn day and night on the show, and this trend soon drifted into mainstream fashion. Big, almost huge, gilt fashion earrings several almost two inches across drew attention to the face and hair. stones could be real of fake. Gilt metal, pearls and diamante were intended to tell the rest of the world you had "arrived".The clothing and jewellery they wore was reminiscent of the seductive Hollywood styles of the 1930s and 1940s. These shows, targeted towards females, influenced women to wear jewellery to show one's economic status. Synthetic fabrics went out of style in the 1980s. Wool, cotton, and silk returned to popularity for their perceived quality. For evening rich brocades, lace and lame were the fabrics of choice.
1: The Cast of the TV soap opera Dynasty in all their splendour.
The Return of Glamour.After begeing somewhat subdued and conservative in the 1970s the costume jewellery industry again flourished in the 1980s. A number of important influences gebined to give women a new freedom and confidence to wear frankly fake fashion jewellery. In fact, the bigger and glitzier the better!
In this respect, several important influences which contributed to the popular taste can be identified.
The Real Jewellery Look: inspired by Diana Princess of Wales.
Nostalgic Historical Revivals: imitation of historical periods.
Frankly Fake: inspired by the glitz and glamour of TV shows like Dallas and Dynasty and the influence of celebrities like Madonna
Resurgence of Plastic Jewellery: novelty themes and treatments such as prints, animal patterns, and so on.Part II will examine the influence of the Dallasty phenomenon and the resurgence of novelty styles in plastic jewellery and hair accessories.
Frankly Fake.Unlike previous generations when rhinestone jewellery had been more favoured by mature women, the craze was for bright and glittery jewellery was followed by teenagers and older women alike in the 1980s. Previous rules about what was considered appropriate wear for particular occasions were discarded. Rhinestones, faux pearls and bright gold or gilt jewellery came to be worn on every possible occasion, not just in the evening.
The Dallasty Phenomenon.In the USA glamour came in the far reaching influence of Television shows like Dallas and Dynasty, which were watched by millions of viewers around the world. The shows epitomized an era of glamour and decadence that later became the hallmark of the American primetime soap operas of the 1980s. The women portrayed in these soap operas were powerful and assertive, yet also feminine. The lavish use of both fine and costume jewellery was worn day and night on the show, and this trend soon drifted into mainstream fashion. Big, almost huge, gilt fashion earrings several almost two inches across drew attention to the face and hair. stones could be real of fake. Gilt metal, pearls and diamante were intended to tell the rest of the world you had "arrived".The clothing and jewellery they wore was reminiscent of the seductive Hollywood styles of the 1930s and 1940s. These shows, targeted towards females, influenced women to wear jewellery to show one's economic status. Synthetic fabrics went out of style in the 1980s. Wool, cotton, and silk returned to popularity for their perceived quality. For evening rich brocades, lace and lame were the fabrics of choice.
1: The Cast of the TV soap opera Dynasty in all their splendour.
e bay and paypal rip off
I bought an amp from a clown called boandsav,the amp was not the described one.he wrote back its my fault (really) and would not refund.I contacted paypal who agreed it was not the amp I bought and was told I should ship back at my cost to recieve refund.so I'm $24 out of pocket.e bay and paypal are a joke and certainly don't look after their members.
Discover Hidden s Dropshipping Secrets
A drop shipper is a business that has merchandise for sale below normal retail and will ship the merchandise directly to your customer for you.They are really selling to you, but shipping to your customer.As an okay drop ship seller, your steps are very simple: 1. Advertise the item(s) on okay. 2. geplete the auction and take payment from the winning bidder. 3. Contact your drop shipper and pay the drop shipper for the item. The difference between what you pay for the item and what you sell it to your okay winner for is your profit. 4. The drop shipper will send out the item for you and hopefully youll have a happy customer who will post positive feedback on your okay ratings page. What are the advantages? 1. You dont have to invest in inventory or spend time running around trying to find things to sell. 2. There are many drop shippers and an amazing variety of items you can probably find most anything you would like to sell from a drop shipper. 3. You dont have to worry about packing and shipping your items and making trips to the post office or UPS. What are some disadvantages? 1. You have to locate and set up a relationship with a drop shipper. 2. There are drop ship scams that you have to be aware of. Under most circumstances you should not have to pay a fee to get established with a drop shipping business. 3. You will be selling brand new merchandise and your profit margin might not be as much as it would be from buying in demand items from yard sales and flea markets. 4. Middlemen you have to be careful to make sure that there are not a lot of others in the supply chain. They will drive up the cost of your items and cost you profit. 5. Its likely that others on okay are buying from the same drop shipper you are, so you probably will have some gepetition in your category. How you can get a gepetitive edge If others are selling the same items that you are, how can you make your products stand out? Your drop shipper will likely provide pictures and descriptions of the items you want to sell. Instead of taking their stock pictures and descriptions, order one of the items for yourself, then: 1. Take your own pictures, from a variety of angles and post multiple product shots. 2. Write your own, much more detailed description. What you want to do is to stand out from the other auctions. If a buyer is searching on okay for an item, and is scrolling through the results and there are many pictures, all the same, there is nothing to draw their eye. Give them something different and they will reward you with clicks on your auction item.
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