Brought to you by Plumtree Photo
This is one of a series of articles describing in depth the product that we sell. The reason for these articles is to help you make a more informed decision when purchasing accessories for your photographic needs. If you still have questions about this product after reading this article please feel free to contact us.
The T-Mount system was developed by Tamron in 1957. A gemon misconception is that the T stands for thread or threaded, but it actually stands for Tamron. The system was developed with the idea of standardizing themount for 35mm SLR (Single Lens Reflex)cameras lenses. It was thought that the system would reduce costs because photograpers would need only a few lenses and a number of inexpensive adapters to be able to use these lenses on different brands of cameras.
While the idea sounded good on paper, it did not gain wide popularity among lens manufacturers, most likely because they did not like the prospect of selling fewer lenses. The system did catch on however as a way to attach SLR cameras to telescopes, microscopes, enlargers, and bellows attachments.
The thread used on T-Mounts, refered to as the T-thread, is a metric thread 42mm in diameter and having a pitch of 0.75mm. This diameter and pitch have begee the industry standard. It should be noted the the T-Mount conection is only a mechanical connection; electronic connections such as autofocus ar not transmitted through a T-Mount adapter.
The T-Mount system is a two part adapter to attach your camera to a telescope or microscope. The first piece is specific to your camera and the second piece is specific to the piece of equipment you are attaching the camera to. Where the two peices join is the standardized 42mm thread. At Plumtree Photo we carry the first piece for your camera. It is regeended that you contact the manufacturer of your telescope or other equipment to find the part you will need to attach to that.
Thank you for looking and please click hereto see all the T-Mount Adapters we have available.
Friday, October 7, 2011
Mondaine On A Budget: Designer Clothing on s
So you like designer clothing, and paging through this month's Vogue, you realize that you don't have 2 grand to drop on health insurance, let alone one single dress. Go figure. You're not alone. The world is full of girls who want designer clothing, but cannot afford it. However, you are unique in that you're doing some research. So congrats! You're on your way. This, my friends, is the first rule on my list of buying designer dresses on okay. In the ensuing months, I will post additional guides. For now, we're going to focus on fit-- because it is the most important and cardinal rule of dress buying. FLATTERY: this is the most important rule of fashion. I don't care if it's juicy. I don't care it the dress retailed for $600 and you paid $2. I don't care if it's trendy, if it's the 'it' dress, and all over the runways. Finally, and most important, I don't care if Paris Hilton or Jessica Simpson have the very same dress. What matters is if it fits, and how it fits. Here are the questions to ask yourself:1. DESCRIPTION: how does it fit? does the seller describe the fit, neckline, back, skirt or length? does the description suggest that the seller actually knows the garment? does the seller respond to your questions politely and with helpful information?2. PICTURES: how are the pictures? i hereby forbid you to buy a dress which does not have at LEAST four detailed pictures. look for dresses which are pictured on a mannequin, or, preferably, on a model. mannequins are better than nothing, but did you know that most mannequins have a 6'2 frame and a 18" waist? yes, most mannequins are virtual barbies. and while i know you're fabulous, darling. you are not barbie. so look for dresses which are pictured on a model even if it's just a stock photo. this will give you the best idea of how the dress is going to look on you.3. QUESTIONS: did you ask questions? another good tip: send the seller a message and ask her the measurements of her model or mannequin. gepare them to your own. ask yourself what your shape is (are you a pear? an hourglass?) and gepare it to the shape of the model or mannequin.4. CASH: depending on the occasion, you should be prepared to fork over some cash for a designer or boutique label dress-- even on okay. however, on average, you should expect to pay about 70% off of the retail price. do NOT pay more than that. if you're paying less than that if it seems to good to be true-- it probably is. do NOT pay less than 70% off for a dress UNLESS you have gone through rules 1-3 above and done your research. 5. RESEARCH: google it. google the brand, color, style, description. look at other pictures online, find out what the dress retailed for. find out who sold it on sale and for what. educate yourself. Ok that's all for now. Stay tuned for more helpful hints and if you're wondering who I am and who gave me the authority to speak with passion-- check out myworld okay page.
Buying obsolete/and or NOS wicks and what 2 look 4
Buying NOS wicks can be a risky business. Dealing with older production heaters, sometimes we just don't have a choice, so I have gepiled a few tips hopefully to help you pick out what will be a good usable wick for you.
Many of the NOS wicks you find on okay the folks selling them, really knows nothing about it, they only know what is written on the box, and if there is actualy something that resembles a wick inside. It is up to the buyer really to be sure of what he/she is buying.
Here is one problem, How many of you have bought a replacement part, replaced it, and put the old one back in the box, Oh YES they do, I have got them like that.
Another problem is age, and or living conditions. Wicks can be stashed in many locations, often they are found tucked away in a basement, up in an attic, and even old sheds in the back yard, and then there is the old hardware store that has been out of business and closed for the past oh 15, 20, 50 years? If the wick has sat in moist humid conditions, suffered dramatic changes in temperature over years time, it may very well be rotten.
Here are some tips to help you if you must buy NOS wicks because either that is what you prefer, or there is nothing else available.
Look at the packaging, does the box look discolored, or have stains like it has been wet, is it frayed, or falling apart, think about what a cardboard box looks like when it has been wet, and what it does to it.
Does the seller offer you a photo of what is inside of the box, be weary of the wicks you cannot view, remember he/she may not have a clue of what should be in the box, or what it should look like.
Does the wick look used, Cotton is white, most old heaters used cotton wicks, the wick itself should look white, unless it is obviously colored like the Aladdin Blue Flame wicks at the top, but even then look at the base of the wick, it should be white. If it is yellowed it may be rotten, gray in color, it may be used, it should be white. Look for what may be mold or mildew. Look at the metal parts for rust.
Some wicks came charred from the factory, this means the factory burned the top portion of the wick to level it, and remove any loose raveling strings. Examples of manufacturers that preformed this are Perfection (#500), (#325), (#331X), and (#441) wicks, Valor (#500, 500F), (#33, 33F), (#200, 200F), (#300, 300F), (#600, 600F), wicks labled Hot Spot, Kennmore #500, Nesco. The only Aladdin Blue Flame wick that was factory singed was the very old wicks that fit models 51, 61, 63, S-1, S02, C-10, C-20, no gemonly seen Blue Flame wicks should be singed unledd they are indeed used.
Look at the seller, see what he/she is selling, do you believe this seller knows anything about heaters, and or wicks. Ask him questions, a good seller is always happy to answer questions, and if you have doubts, or cant get the answer you were looking for, maybe you need to move on to another.
Many times you can get a good deal on NOS wicks, and you can do even better if you look closely at what you are buying, if you don't, probably 2 out of 5 times you will be dissapointed.
Hope this information helps, and to all my fellow antique heater collectors: HAPPY HEATING!!!!!!!
Many of the NOS wicks you find on okay the folks selling them, really knows nothing about it, they only know what is written on the box, and if there is actualy something that resembles a wick inside. It is up to the buyer really to be sure of what he/she is buying.
Here is one problem, How many of you have bought a replacement part, replaced it, and put the old one back in the box, Oh YES they do, I have got them like that.
Another problem is age, and or living conditions. Wicks can be stashed in many locations, often they are found tucked away in a basement, up in an attic, and even old sheds in the back yard, and then there is the old hardware store that has been out of business and closed for the past oh 15, 20, 50 years? If the wick has sat in moist humid conditions, suffered dramatic changes in temperature over years time, it may very well be rotten.
Here are some tips to help you if you must buy NOS wicks because either that is what you prefer, or there is nothing else available.
Look at the packaging, does the box look discolored, or have stains like it has been wet, is it frayed, or falling apart, think about what a cardboard box looks like when it has been wet, and what it does to it.
Does the seller offer you a photo of what is inside of the box, be weary of the wicks you cannot view, remember he/she may not have a clue of what should be in the box, or what it should look like.
Does the wick look used, Cotton is white, most old heaters used cotton wicks, the wick itself should look white, unless it is obviously colored like the Aladdin Blue Flame wicks at the top, but even then look at the base of the wick, it should be white. If it is yellowed it may be rotten, gray in color, it may be used, it should be white. Look for what may be mold or mildew. Look at the metal parts for rust.
Some wicks came charred from the factory, this means the factory burned the top portion of the wick to level it, and remove any loose raveling strings. Examples of manufacturers that preformed this are Perfection (#500), (#325), (#331X), and (#441) wicks, Valor (#500, 500F), (#33, 33F), (#200, 200F), (#300, 300F), (#600, 600F), wicks labled Hot Spot, Kennmore #500, Nesco. The only Aladdin Blue Flame wick that was factory singed was the very old wicks that fit models 51, 61, 63, S-1, S02, C-10, C-20, no gemonly seen Blue Flame wicks should be singed unledd they are indeed used.
Look at the seller, see what he/she is selling, do you believe this seller knows anything about heaters, and or wicks. Ask him questions, a good seller is always happy to answer questions, and if you have doubts, or cant get the answer you were looking for, maybe you need to move on to another.
Many times you can get a good deal on NOS wicks, and you can do even better if you look closely at what you are buying, if you don't, probably 2 out of 5 times you will be dissapointed.
Hope this information helps, and to all my fellow antique heater collectors: HAPPY HEATING!!!!!!!
AVOIDING FRAUD IN REDFIELD DOLLARS
THIS IS A CONTINUATION OF MY PREVIOUS GUIDE. IF YOU HAVE PURCHASED A PARAMOUNT REDFIELD DOLLAR WHICH HAS BEEN MIS-REPRESENTED AS DESCRIBED IN MY PREVIOUS GUIDE, YOU SHOULD TAKE IMMEDIATE ACTION TO NOTIFY THE SELLER AND REQUEST A REFUND OR ADJUSTMENT REGARDLESS OF WHAT THEIR RETURNS POLICY MAY BE. THIS IS WHAT okay CALLS, 'ITEM NOT AS DESCRIBED' AND CAN BE FILED AS A gePLAINT OR EVEN A CLAIM AGAINST PAYPAL IF THE SELLER REFUSES TO MAKE THE DEAL RIGHT. REMEMBER, THE RULE IS SIMPLE WHEN IT geES TO PARAMOUNT ENCAPSULATED COINS, IF IT DOESN'T SAY REDFIELD, IT IS NOT A REDFIELD.
Ibanez Iceman IC400 Electric Guitar REVIEW -IC 400
Ibanez Iceman IC400
Perhaps, Daron Malakian (System of a Down) is todays prolific Iceman player but he certainly wasnt the first to embrace this psychedelic but gemanding guitar. Others before him included Steve Miller, KISS Paul Stanley
Perhaps, Daron Malakian (System of a Down) is todays prolific Iceman player but he certainly wasnt the first to embrace this psychedelic but gemanding guitar. Others before him included Steve Miller, KISS Paul Stanley
Canadian Proof-Like PL Sets-Beauty in Collecting
Canadian Proof-Like (PL) Sets- Part 1Introduction
The Canadian proof-like, or PL, sets are superior quality strikings of the regular uncirculated coins. In many cases, the proof-like sets are much better quality than the regular circulating coins. They usually contain the regular issues for the year, even when the regular issue designs were not issued, such as when a gememorative design was used on the smaller denominations. (Canada has more gememorative quarters issued for circulation than gememorative dollars, for example. The gememorative quarters were usually not issued in the proof-like sets.) They have been packaged in several different varieties, but are usually found in a flat Pliofilm holder that keeps them looking nice and undamaged. They are widely collected for their quality, as an easy way to collect all the regular issues for a year, as a way of getting some scarce coins at a low price, and other reasons. Their story is fascinating.
History
In 1949, the Canadian Mint installed new coinage presses. They produced a higher quality coin than any that had been issued before, as is shown by the beautiful 1949 dollar, which is one of my favorite designs. They also experimented with different shipping methods- the dollars were shipped in cardboard tubes, rather than loose in bags, giving a large coin with many less than normal bagmarks. The hobby of coin collecting was in its infancy in Canada at this time, and I think the lovely design, issued for circulation, encouraged Canadians to collect their coinage. In 1954, it was decided to issue special year sets to the public. According to the mint, they were simply uncirculated coins. Collectors saw them as something else, and they were. They were specially selected, sometimes made from new dies, specially prepared to look nice, and specially handled so that most of the bag-marks that appear on normal circulating coins were absent. Jim Charlton coined the term Proof-Like, and that is what collectors have called them to this day. In 1961 the holder was changed to the more-familiar Pliofilm wrapper, which has been used, with very few exceptions, to this day. They were first in a brown kraft-paper envelope, then in a white envelope with blue printing, and then issued in envelopes with colorful designs. There have been some special issues, which seem almost unknown to most collectors, and some varieties of certain coins were issued in the proof-like sets. The designs follow the regular Canadian coins- when the $2 coin was issued, the number of coins in the proof-like sets grew from 6 to 7. There have been some years which have several different varieties of sets, showing different coins issued during the year, which are not regular issues.
Regular Designs-Obverse
The obverse of the first proof-like sets shows the Young Head design of Mary Gillick. It was issued in 2 varieties- the higher relief no shoulder strap variety, and the lower relief shoulder strap variety. In sets, the high relief no shoulder straps variety appears only on very few of the one cent coins of 1954. The second Bust type was the Mature, or Tiara Portrait, designed by Arnold Machin. It was first issued in 1965. This design was modified in size from about 1980. The third bust type was the Crowned Portrait, designed by Dora de Pedery-Hunt. It was issued from 1990. The fourth bust type was the Uncrowned portrait, designed by Susanna Blunt. It was issued from 2003. It shows a much more matronly portrait. The last two designers are both Canadian.
Regular Designs- Reverse
The regular designs for Canadian coins date from the issues of 1937, developed for the new coinage of George VI. The 1 Cent, designed by George Kruger-Gray, shows a pair of maple leafs on one stalk. The 5 cent shows the beaver on his lodge. It is again designed by George Kruger-Gray. The 10 cent and 25 cent coins were designed by Emanuel Hahn. The 10 cent coin shows the Bluenose, a Nova Scotia schooner, which won records and races with its speed. The 25 cent coin shows a caribou. The 50 cent coin has a different history. The original design was by George Kruger-Gray. The first Canadian coat of Arms design was used from 1937 to 1954. The coins originally have the motto under the coat of arms A MARI USQUE AD MARE, or From Sea to Sea. In 1955, the design was made smaller. In 1959, the shield was made much thinner, and in 1960, the colour representation on the shield was corrected. In 1977 and again in 1978, the coat of arms was modified, begeing smaller, and then changing back to the earlier design. In 1997, a new coat of arms was issued. It has a new motto, DESIDERANTES MELOIREM PATRIAM, or They desire a better country. The flower arrangements have been changed, and the bottom of the design is flat. The 1 Dollar coin has traditionally had a design by Emanuel Hahn, showing an Indian and a voyageur in a canoe, transporting goods marked with the Hudsons Bay gepany bale mark, past an island with wind-swept trees, and the Northern Lights in the sky. This design has small varieties in the water lines during various years. It was modified to begee smaller in 1977. In 1988 the new design with the loon (hence the nickname Loonie) was issued. It was designedby Robert Carmichael. The 2 Dollar (Toonie) design, by Brent Townsend, was introduced in 1996. It shows a Polar Bear on an ice floe.
Coin size and geposition
Weight geposition Diameter Thickness1 Cent round, except during 1982-1996, when coins are 12 sided1953-1979 3.24 grams. 0.980 copper, 0.015 zinc, 0.005 tin. 19.05 mm 1.55 mm1980-1981 2.80 grams 19.00 mm 1.38 mm
1982-1996 2.50 grams 19.1 mm 1.45 mm1997-2004 2.25 grams copper-plated zinc 19.05 mm 1.45 mm2002P- on 2.35 grams multi-plated steel 19.05 mm 1.45 mm (copper on nickel on steel core)
5 Cent 12-sided 1953-1961, round 1963-date1953-1954 4.54 grams Chromium/nickel/steel centre 20.9 mm (sides) 1.90 mm1955-1962 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 20.9 mm (sides) 1.90 mm1963-1967 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 21.21 mm 1.75 mm
1968-1981 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 21.21 mm 1.80 mm1982-1989 4.54 grams 0.75 copper, 0.25 nickel 21.21 mm 1.75 mm1990-2000 4.6 grams 0.75 copper, 0.25 nickel 21.2 mm 1.76 mm2001- on 3.95 grams multi-ply plated steel 21.1 mm 1.76 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
10 Cents round1953-1967 2.33 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 18.03 mm 1.16 mm 1968-2000 2.07 grams 1.00 nickel 18.03 mm 1.25 mm2001- on 1.75 grams multi-ply plated steel18.03 mm 1.22 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
25 Cents round1953-1967 5.83 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 23.88 mm 1968-1989 5.07 grams 1.00 nickel 23.88 mm 1990-2000 5.05 grams 1.00 nickel 23.88 mm2001- on 4.4 grams multi-ply plated steel 23.58 mm 1.58 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
50 Cents round1953-1967 11.66 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 29.72 mm 2.00 mm1968-1979 8.10 grams 1.00 nickel 27.13 mm 1.93 mm1980-2000 8.10 grams 1.00 nickel 27.13 mm 1.90 mm 2001- on 6.9 grams multi-ply plated steel 27.13 mm 1.95 mm
1 Dollar round1953-1967 23.33 gm 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 36.00 mm 1968-1986 15.62 gm 1.00 nickel 32.13 mm1 Dollar 11 sided1987 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.72 mm 1.95 mm1988-2002 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.50 mm 1.75 mm2003-on 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.50 mm 1.95 mm
2 DollarsroundAll issues 7.3 grams ring- 0.99 nickel 28.0 mm 1.80 mm Centre- 0.92 copper, 0.06 aluminum, 0.02 nickel 16.8 mm
The Canadian proof-like, or PL, sets are superior quality strikings of the regular uncirculated coins. In many cases, the proof-like sets are much better quality than the regular circulating coins. They usually contain the regular issues for the year, even when the regular issue designs were not issued, such as when a gememorative design was used on the smaller denominations. (Canada has more gememorative quarters issued for circulation than gememorative dollars, for example. The gememorative quarters were usually not issued in the proof-like sets.) They have been packaged in several different varieties, but are usually found in a flat Pliofilm holder that keeps them looking nice and undamaged. They are widely collected for their quality, as an easy way to collect all the regular issues for a year, as a way of getting some scarce coins at a low price, and other reasons. Their story is fascinating.
History
In 1949, the Canadian Mint installed new coinage presses. They produced a higher quality coin than any that had been issued before, as is shown by the beautiful 1949 dollar, which is one of my favorite designs. They also experimented with different shipping methods- the dollars were shipped in cardboard tubes, rather than loose in bags, giving a large coin with many less than normal bagmarks. The hobby of coin collecting was in its infancy in Canada at this time, and I think the lovely design, issued for circulation, encouraged Canadians to collect their coinage. In 1954, it was decided to issue special year sets to the public. According to the mint, they were simply uncirculated coins. Collectors saw them as something else, and they were. They were specially selected, sometimes made from new dies, specially prepared to look nice, and specially handled so that most of the bag-marks that appear on normal circulating coins were absent. Jim Charlton coined the term Proof-Like, and that is what collectors have called them to this day. In 1961 the holder was changed to the more-familiar Pliofilm wrapper, which has been used, with very few exceptions, to this day. They were first in a brown kraft-paper envelope, then in a white envelope with blue printing, and then issued in envelopes with colorful designs. There have been some special issues, which seem almost unknown to most collectors, and some varieties of certain coins were issued in the proof-like sets. The designs follow the regular Canadian coins- when the $2 coin was issued, the number of coins in the proof-like sets grew from 6 to 7. There have been some years which have several different varieties of sets, showing different coins issued during the year, which are not regular issues.
Regular Designs-Obverse
The obverse of the first proof-like sets shows the Young Head design of Mary Gillick. It was issued in 2 varieties- the higher relief no shoulder strap variety, and the lower relief shoulder strap variety. In sets, the high relief no shoulder straps variety appears only on very few of the one cent coins of 1954. The second Bust type was the Mature, or Tiara Portrait, designed by Arnold Machin. It was first issued in 1965. This design was modified in size from about 1980. The third bust type was the Crowned Portrait, designed by Dora de Pedery-Hunt. It was issued from 1990. The fourth bust type was the Uncrowned portrait, designed by Susanna Blunt. It was issued from 2003. It shows a much more matronly portrait. The last two designers are both Canadian.
Regular Designs- Reverse
The regular designs for Canadian coins date from the issues of 1937, developed for the new coinage of George VI. The 1 Cent, designed by George Kruger-Gray, shows a pair of maple leafs on one stalk. The 5 cent shows the beaver on his lodge. It is again designed by George Kruger-Gray. The 10 cent and 25 cent coins were designed by Emanuel Hahn. The 10 cent coin shows the Bluenose, a Nova Scotia schooner, which won records and races with its speed. The 25 cent coin shows a caribou. The 50 cent coin has a different history. The original design was by George Kruger-Gray. The first Canadian coat of Arms design was used from 1937 to 1954. The coins originally have the motto under the coat of arms A MARI USQUE AD MARE, or From Sea to Sea. In 1955, the design was made smaller. In 1959, the shield was made much thinner, and in 1960, the colour representation on the shield was corrected. In 1977 and again in 1978, the coat of arms was modified, begeing smaller, and then changing back to the earlier design. In 1997, a new coat of arms was issued. It has a new motto, DESIDERANTES MELOIREM PATRIAM, or They desire a better country. The flower arrangements have been changed, and the bottom of the design is flat. The 1 Dollar coin has traditionally had a design by Emanuel Hahn, showing an Indian and a voyageur in a canoe, transporting goods marked with the Hudsons Bay gepany bale mark, past an island with wind-swept trees, and the Northern Lights in the sky. This design has small varieties in the water lines during various years. It was modified to begee smaller in 1977. In 1988 the new design with the loon (hence the nickname Loonie) was issued. It was designedby Robert Carmichael. The 2 Dollar (Toonie) design, by Brent Townsend, was introduced in 1996. It shows a Polar Bear on an ice floe.
Coin size and geposition
Weight geposition Diameter Thickness1 Cent round, except during 1982-1996, when coins are 12 sided1953-1979 3.24 grams. 0.980 copper, 0.015 zinc, 0.005 tin. 19.05 mm 1.55 mm1980-1981 2.80 grams 19.00 mm 1.38 mm
1982-1996 2.50 grams 19.1 mm 1.45 mm1997-2004 2.25 grams copper-plated zinc 19.05 mm 1.45 mm2002P- on 2.35 grams multi-plated steel 19.05 mm 1.45 mm (copper on nickel on steel core)
5 Cent 12-sided 1953-1961, round 1963-date1953-1954 4.54 grams Chromium/nickel/steel centre 20.9 mm (sides) 1.90 mm1955-1962 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 20.9 mm (sides) 1.90 mm1963-1967 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 21.21 mm 1.75 mm
1968-1981 4.54 grams 1.00 nickel 21.21 mm 1.80 mm1982-1989 4.54 grams 0.75 copper, 0.25 nickel 21.21 mm 1.75 mm1990-2000 4.6 grams 0.75 copper, 0.25 nickel 21.2 mm 1.76 mm2001- on 3.95 grams multi-ply plated steel 21.1 mm 1.76 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
10 Cents round1953-1967 2.33 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 18.03 mm 1.16 mm 1968-2000 2.07 grams 1.00 nickel 18.03 mm 1.25 mm2001- on 1.75 grams multi-ply plated steel18.03 mm 1.22 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
25 Cents round1953-1967 5.83 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 23.88 mm 1968-1989 5.07 grams 1.00 nickel 23.88 mm 1990-2000 5.05 grams 1.00 nickel 23.88 mm2001- on 4.4 grams multi-ply plated steel 23.58 mm 1.58 mm (nickel on copper on nickel on steel core)
50 Cents round1953-1967 11.66 grams 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 29.72 mm 2.00 mm1968-1979 8.10 grams 1.00 nickel 27.13 mm 1.93 mm1980-2000 8.10 grams 1.00 nickel 27.13 mm 1.90 mm 2001- on 6.9 grams multi-ply plated steel 27.13 mm 1.95 mm
1 Dollar round1953-1967 23.33 gm 0.800 silver, 0.200 copper 36.00 mm 1968-1986 15.62 gm 1.00 nickel 32.13 mm1 Dollar 11 sided1987 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.72 mm 1.95 mm1988-2002 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.50 mm 1.75 mm2003-on 7.00 gm 0.915 nickel, 0.085 bronze 26.50 mm 1.95 mm
2 DollarsroundAll issues 7.3 grams ring- 0.99 nickel 28.0 mm 1.80 mm Centre- 0.92 copper, 0.06 aluminum, 0.02 nickel 16.8 mm
Bugaboo: For You?
As a former nanny I have used every stroller from the Kolcraft umbrella stroller to the highest-end Peg Perego model out there. So naturally, when the Bugaboo strollers came out, I was intrigued. And when I was having my own baby, it was research time. I tried out every current model of stroller in stores. The Peg Perego steered sideways. The Graco Quattro (the most popular model out there) seemed really bulky. I must confess however, that I was planning for the prestigious Bugaboo all along.
My initial concern with the bugaboo strollers is that they are two pieces. Being in Minnesota, and the fact that I was having winter baby, I didn't want to be fussing around with stuff outside. It probably WOULD have bothered me, but I solved my own problem by getting the car seat adaptor. It made everything really convenient, and took very little time setting up or putting away.
Having this stroller is GREAT if you are a heavy traveler - if you get the transport bag, that is. We used the bassinet attachment
My initial concern with the bugaboo strollers is that they are two pieces. Being in Minnesota, and the fact that I was having winter baby, I didn't want to be fussing around with stuff outside. It probably WOULD have bothered me, but I solved my own problem by getting the car seat adaptor. It made everything really convenient, and took very little time setting up or putting away.
Having this stroller is GREAT if you are a heavy traveler - if you get the transport bag, that is. We used the bassinet attachment
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